Breeding an animal can be a difficult undertaking. Before you begin you should take the following statements into consideration.
1) Do I have the Experience?- You need to know how to take care of the adult animals well before you even begin to think about breeding them. Any problems you have with the adults will be multiplied with the young. I suggest at least 1 years worth of experience caring for the adults.
2) Are my adults ready to breed?- In some cases animals can be old enough to breed but still not ready for it. Make sure they are healthy and have good weight. Do not rush them. Breeding can be stressful.
3) Do I have the money?- Be prepared to spend extra money on more tanks/containers, and more food for the young. Often the young cannot be kept with the adults (cannibalism), or require special food.
4) Do I have the space, and time?- The young will take-up both of these. This is especially true if you breed frogs and raise the tadpoles in individual cups (the horror!).
5) Do I have a plan for the young?- Will you keep them, give them away or sell them? If you don't plan on keeping them you should look around for someone who wants them early in the breeding process. If you are successful and enjoy it, you may develop it into a side business.
The Herper
Reptiles, Ambhibians and Everything Cold-blooded
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
How to Dust Fruit flies with Calcium
Dusting small insects like fruit flies with calcium/vitamin powder can be very difficult. It's hard to get just enough dust on them without extra going into the tank. Fruit flies also crawl up the side of the container and have to be constantly shaken down when not covered. A very simple way to avoid this problem is to:
1) Shake the fruit flies into a container. Put a top on it and place the container into a refrigerator. Let the flies cool for at least 10-15 minutes. They will stop moving.
2) Working quickly sprinkle dust on them and shake.
3) Dump them into a fine mess strainer and shake off the excess dust. They are now ready to feed to your animals.
The flies quickly warm up in the tank and start moving again. This is the method I use to dust flies for my dart frogs. I like it because flies that aren't moving are easier to deal with, and you don't get extra dust in the tank.
Friday, November 18, 2011
How to Get My Snake to Eat?
A few tips for getting a stubborn snake to eat...
1) Make sure the snake is warm enough. If the snake is in a cool area it's metabolism will be significantly lower.
2) Make sure the food is warm. A living mouse will obviously have a higher temperature than a dead room temperature mouse. If you soak the mice in warm water before using them the snake may think they are alive and be more interested.
3) If a ball python is rejecting mice or rats try gerbils.
4) Don't be afraid to rub the snake with the food in order to get it's attention.
5) Make sure you are not feeding your snakes too often. if the snake doesn't eat today wait a few days and try again. It may still be digesting its last meal.
6) If the snake is new let it get acclimated to it's new environment before trying to feed it. Also ask if it had been fed just before you purchased it.
7) Some snakes may be more accepting of live food. Live food is nothing to be afraid, just don't leave the animal with the snake if it doesn't accept it.
8) If your snake grabs the food off the tongs and then drops it you can try holding on to the prey item and lightly tugging and wiggling it. This will make the snake thing it is alive and he will hold it tighter to try to kill it (gives him satisfaction). Tugging on it for 10 seconds is enough.
1) Make sure the snake is warm enough. If the snake is in a cool area it's metabolism will be significantly lower.
2) Make sure the food is warm. A living mouse will obviously have a higher temperature than a dead room temperature mouse. If you soak the mice in warm water before using them the snake may think they are alive and be more interested.
3) If a ball python is rejecting mice or rats try gerbils.
4) Don't be afraid to rub the snake with the food in order to get it's attention.
5) Make sure you are not feeding your snakes too often. if the snake doesn't eat today wait a few days and try again. It may still be digesting its last meal.
6) If the snake is new let it get acclimated to it's new environment before trying to feed it. Also ask if it had been fed just before you purchased it.
7) Some snakes may be more accepting of live food. Live food is nothing to be afraid, just don't leave the animal with the snake if it doesn't accept it.
8) If your snake grabs the food off the tongs and then drops it you can try holding on to the prey item and lightly tugging and wiggling it. This will make the snake thing it is alive and he will hold it tighter to try to kill it (gives him satisfaction). Tugging on it for 10 seconds is enough.
Monday, October 3, 2011
How to Care for Poison Dart Frogs
Poison dart frogs are some of the most stunning and beautiful animals you can have as pets. They have very specific care requirements and require very small foods, With proper research and the right supplies anyone can care for them. Dart frogs are native to Central and South America. They contain powerful toxins in their skin in the wild, but captive bred individuals loose them. They can live 7-15 yrs. These frogs are active during the day and known for being bold. They can provide you with hours of enjoyment watching them search for food and interact.
Housing
Keep your dart frogs in tropical, planted vivarium with plenty of hiding and climbing places. Two frogs can be kept in a ten gallon tank. Add 10 additional gallons for each additional frog to avoid territorial fights.
Water and Humidity
Water should be provided at all times. It can be in the form of a moving water feature or a water bowl. Perform frequent partial water changes if using a water feature, and change the water daily if using a water bowl. Humidity should be between 70-100%. The higher the better with these frogs. Mist the tank daily or hook it up to a fogger to maintain the humidity.
Temperature
These frogs due well with daytime temperature ranging from 72-82 degrees F. Night time temperatures can be allowed to drop down to 70 or high 60s. A heating pad stuck to the back of the tank will provide sufficient heat.
Feeding
Dart frogs require small foods. Feed them pinhead crickets, fruit flies, spring tails, termites, flour beetles and other small foods (Phyllobates terribilis can take up to quarter inch crickets). I culture my own fruit flies, spring tails, and crickets to feed mine.Young frogs should be fed everyday. Adults can also eat everyday, but every other day is just as fine for them. Dust the food with a calcium/vitamin supplement 2-3 times a week and offer a variety of foods.
Good Beginner Species
Dendrobates Auratus (pictured above)
D. Leucomelas
D. Azures
D. Tinctorius
Phyllobates Terribilis
P. Vittatus
P. bicolor
Sunday, September 18, 2011
12 New Species of Frog!
Very interesting article. http://www.ibtimes.com/articles/215670/20110918/frog-western-ghats-extinction.htm
Sunday, September 11, 2011
New York Metro Reptile Expo
The reptile expo is back at the Westchester County Center today, Sept. 11 2011 from 10am-4pm. Adults:$10, children;$5, Children under 7:free.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Look at the Color on this Toad!
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