Wood for Tropical, High Humidity, Wet Vivariums

Next to plants wood if one of the most important aspects of creating a naturalistic vivarium. It is great for the animals to climb on and hide under. Moss and epiphytic plants will grow on it, and vines will use it for support. It is important to choose the wood carefully, as the wrong wood my be harmful or not hold up well in the tank. Thankfully today there are many options choose from.

Cork Bark: A common accent wood, cork is often used in the vivarium hobby. flat sheets of it are great to use as a background for the vivarium. Usually, though, it comes in curled/curved pieces with are great as hides. It is also very light weight.

Ghost Wood: This is a beautiful light colored, smooth wood. Moss loves to grow on it, and it holds up very well in humid environments.

Grape Wood/Vine: It will not hold up as long as many of the woods on this list but it can work in a frog tank as long as it is not kept very wet. This means don't use it for tanks with water features and that get misted more than once a day. It has a great look in a natural vivarium.

Malaysian Drift Wood: This is a heavy, dark wood. It is one of the most popular woods in the hobby for it look and durability. It can even be used submerged under water.

Manzanita: This is a strong wood but it looks delicate. It is light in color and often comes with many long branches that are great for climbers. When used upside down in a tank it gives a branching root system look.

Mopani Wood (Also called Swahala): This wood comes treated (sealed) and untreated. Use the treated for dry tanks. For wet tanks only use the untreated (Some suppliers will call it "Safe for aquarium use").

If you are adventuresome you can use wild wood, though I don't recommend it since you might not know where it has been. But if you get it from deep enough in the wood then it should be fine. Some wild (I know all wood comes from the wild but you get what I'm saying) woods that hold up in wet environments are: elm, beech, and oak. Wild wood should be soaked in a dilute bleach water solution overnight, then soaked in plain water overnight, and then dried at 200 degrees in an oven for a few hours.

If you will be using your wood with a water feature you might want to leech out excess tannins. Tannins are found in the wood and can make your water dark, as well as lowering the pH. The animals usually don't mind but clearer water looks better. To leech out the tannins soak the wood in clean water (Changing the water everyday) until the water is almost clear. I say "almost" clear because you will not need the water to be 100% clear since the filter can handle the rest.

Most wood will mold when put in a tank. don't worry about it. You can scrape it off and eventually it will stop coming.

You can buy Mopani wood using the link below.


     

Understanding Reptile Lighting: UVA and UVB Bulbs

Most reptiles in the wild bask in sunlight at some point during the days. This is important for their survival. If you are lucky enough to live in a warm climate you may keep your reptiles in outdoor enclosures. Here they will be exposed to natural sunlight and will receive the full spectrum of light needed for health and well being. Most people, though, must keep their reptiles indoors where they are only exposed to our artificial lights which do not provide a full spectrum like the Sun. This is why special bulbs must be purchased for reptile tanks. A mix of artificial lights is used to mimic natural sunlight.

The main light you need to worry about is UV (ultraviolet) light. Humans cannot see this light and reptiles can only see one type. There are three types of UV light: UVA, UVB, and UVC.

UVB: This is the most important light. For this you need to go to a pet shop or reptile supply company and buy a special bulb. All diurnal (active during day) basking reptiles require them. The UVB light penetrates the animals skin causing a chemical reaction that changes pre-vitamin D3 into vitamin D3. without vitamin D3 organs can fail, deformities can occur, and death will eventually happen. Nocturnal reptiles (leopard geckos, crested geckos, tokay geckos etc.) and amphibians (frogs, salamanders, etc) do not need added UVB light. They have adaptations that allow them to make do with less light. When buying a UVB bulb look for linear tube type. They are best.    

UVA: Reptiles can see this type of light. They use it to recognize other members of their species and food. UVA light makes reptiles more active and encourages breeding. It also helps with general well-being. Common "full" spectrum household bulbs, basking bulbs, and many UVB bulbs produce it.

UVC: This light is naturally filtered out by earths atmosphere. It is harmful and only used in industry to kill dangerous micro-organisms. You do not need to worry about this. I only mention it because it exists.

Basking reptiles will also need a basking or heat lamp. This simply provides warmth. A simple incandescent bulb can be used for this. It is important for the reptiles metabolism and because the animals body has to be a certain temperature to synthesize vitamin D3. The UVB bulb should be placed near the basking lamp.       

Vivarium Construction

1) Attach cork background to tank wall with aquarium sealant.
2) Add drainage medium. I used featherlite (a glass composite). you may also use clay pellets or gravel.
3) Cover the drainage medium with a barrier that will keep the substrate out of it. I use sphagnum moss (lightly moistened and pressed down).
4) Add the substrate of your choice. (you may add a little activated charcoal beneath it to absorb smells)
5) Add wood and/or rocks and other stable things
6) Add plants
7) Add accents like moss, leaves, water dishes, etc.

You can buy live plants for your own vivarium by using the link below.

Beginner Naturalistic Vivarium Supplies and Cost

This is a list of supplies one would need for a basic 10 gallon tropical vivarium. This is by no means the definitive list. Some things can be removed like the the cork background, and other things added like a thermometer, humidity gauge, or water fall. Also the price I listed is a rough estimate that will be different depending on where you buy the supplies or how much of each you buy. This is still a good guide for the beginning hobbyist.

Ten gallon tank
screen top
Tank hood with light
wood for wet habitats (cypress, cork, ghostwood)
Cork background
water dish
Substrate (like the mix I give in an earlier post)
sphagnum moss
A drainage medium (featherlite or clay pellets)
plants
live moss
under tank heater
silicone sealant
activated charcoal (some don't use it, but it removes off smell:it doesn't last long though)

Cost: $184

Summer Vivarium Project

This summer I plan on constructing a few different vivariums just for fun. Perhaps a few tropical ones, a desert one, a paludarium, etc. I'll keep you posted on the construction and what-not. The above pictures are not mine, but a little inspiration from the web.

Why You Should Use Naturalistic Vivariums

There are few things nicer to look at than a naturalistic animal setup- whether its a saltwater reef tank, a riverside paludarium, a dense jungle scene, or an arid dessert-scape complete with succulents. There are also few things better for the well being of your pet besides a balanced and varied diet. Naturalistic vivariums reduce stress on the animal and you since they don't have to be cleaned as often (though the initial cost may put a little stress on your wallet).

 A properly planned naturalistic vivarium can last for years with minimal maintenance. They can be as simple as some pothos and cork bark to as complex as false bottoms and waterfalls. don't get me wrong "sterile" setups (those with newspaper or paper towels) have there place in the hobby too: for raising juveniles and people who have large amounts of herps with little room. One must always make the effort, though, to provide his/her pets with a setup that reflects its natural environment whenever possible.

Vivarium Substrate Recipe: Great for Poison Dart Frogs

Today I was looking at the terrarium I keep in my room. I've been caring for it for 5years, and I thought "wow the plants are growing beautifully". Then I thought that I should share my substrate ratio so here it is:

3 parts coco-fiber (those bricks they sell)
2 parts tree fern fiber
1 part crushed leafs like oak
1 part compost
1 part peat moss

I sprinkle some top soil from out of the woods on top of this once its in the tank to "seed" it with beneficial organisms like springtails.